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Estel's Avatar
Posts: 5,028 | Thanked: 8,613 times | Joined on Mar 2011
#51
I protest against stating that people living in Australian bush should't be tech savvy.

Seriously though - when it's needed and feasible to recreate USB connections via testpads, IMO best place is where the original port was. But, instead of soldering it to PCB, I would suggest using a little silicone oil on N900's case and PCB part where the port is going to reside, then encapsulate (already soldered etc) port into epoxy putty, the way that it will feel free space in case (thus getting shape of free space), yet it won't be able to get glued into either case or PCB.

This way, one get's similar layout than we have in N900 audio port - is is separate part that doesn't move, because it fills all space around itself, but it isn't "held tight" by anything + it got two elastic wires connecting it to PCB, so it can bend freely (and, in extreme situations, plastic case around it van bend to), without risk of breaking anything, be it PCB or solder. Such concept is practically "indestructible".

/Estel
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#52
Oz bush and tech savvy isn't causal, its coincidental... he's a builder type, not a multimeter kind

good advice on the USB port too, thanks. Though personally would prefer not to have to do that as my level of skills and the chance of breaking something are equal and opposite
 

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#53
I just took my n900 apart to find out the usb port isn't as bad as I thought. It's still attached to the motherboard but the right side seems to have disconnected a bit. Would this be the reason it isn't charging anymore? I plan to solder it down, I just what to make sure it isn't a circuit issue first.
 
Posts: 9 | Thanked: 6 times | Joined on Oct 2011
#54
I tried to soldering it today, but I failed, and my phone barely survived my attempts. Shaky hands seem to be a major obstacle, and I had underestimated how tiny the space on the left side is – you need a really small soldering iron.

I managed to solder only the right side, and I'm not certain it's stably attached to the scraped part – it doesn't appear to be attached at all. And you can laugh at me for the spilled tin all over the place and the almost severed link for the µSD. Picture:
https://imgur.com/7O3VE

I'm leaving it that way until it breaks, and then I'm buying a new phone second hand (or an N9).

My advise: get someone who knows how to solder to do it for you if you can't. And try practising soldering on something else first (didn't help in my case though).

Another note of warning: Be careful when screwing the TORX+ screws, I think I broke something, but I don't know what.

Another useful note: When assembling, slide the monitor up, there's a small part of the metal plate that has to go under the keyboard. It took me a few assembly attempts to figure that out and it isn't mentioned anywhere. If you don't get it right, the bottom side of the monitor sticks up (and if you power up the phone, there's a dark spot on the monitor during sliding).

Last edited by Warrior; 2012-01-14 at 17:31.
 

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Estel's Avatar
Posts: 5,028 | Thanked: 8,613 times | Joined on Mar 2011
#55
Wouldn't it be easier for You, to take out that small PCB with microSD first (not disconnecting ribbon, just laying it flat)?

Also, You nett quite a high wattage soldering iron to heat up cooper layer, that You solder to. As for soldering iron, I'm using self-made contact parts (this part that is heated and You touch soldered part by it - I don't remember English word for it) - I got ones from very thin, to large as regular flat screwdriver's end.

/Estel
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N900's aluminum backcover / body replacement
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N900's HDMI-Out
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Camera cover MOD
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Measure battery's real capacity on-device
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Posts: 9 | Thanked: 6 times | Joined on Oct 2011
#56
If I was to start over (which I don't plan to), I'd cut one of my old screwdrivers in half and insert it into the soldering iron instead of the original tip. I don't know if that's doable, but it sounds like an idea.

(I was afraid to touch the small PCB, the service manual is unclear on the removal process)
 
dr_frost_dk's Avatar
Posts: 1,503 | Thanked: 2,688 times | Joined on Oct 2010 @ Denmark
#57
Anybody need their N900 soldered, im thinking about doing one more and making a video about it, from disassembly to the soldering and the assembly again.

Pref anybody in neighbouring countries (minimise shipping time).

Will do it cheaply, just to get this done once and for all, make a proper guide video.

It's to bad i didn't think to make a video on 1 of the 3 N900's i have already done
 

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Estel's Avatar
Posts: 5,028 | Thanked: 8,613 times | Joined on Mar 2011
#58
you can always de-solder it and solder back again, just for the hell'lotta'fun of doing it

/Estel
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N900's aluminum backcover / body replacement
-
N900's HDMI-Out
-
Camera cover MOD
-
Measure battery's real capacity on-device
-
TrueCrypt 7.1 | ereswap | bnf
-
Hardware's mods research is costly. To support my work, please consider donating. Thank You!
 
Posts: 5,795 | Thanked: 3,151 times | Joined on Feb 2007 @ Agoura Hills Calif
#59
Originally Posted by kaputnik View Post
Yeah, presently the USB isn't vital cos the phone for this fix is used by someone who just needs it to power on and charge, that isn't flimsy in its fix and can stand a bit of rough handling as he lives in the Australian bush and isn't, nor should he be, tech savvy.

The USB port can be replicated via the pads mentioned but it leaves the problem of recreating a USB port somewhere on the phone. The only real use this user would have for a USB connection is to get stuff onto and off the SD card and as that isn't possible with this fix he will just have to go without and use bluetooth
Just for the record, the fix I mentioned has nothing to do with bluetooth; despite the fact that a couple of power users thanked you for your post, it was wildly inaccurate in that respect.
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dr_frost_dk's Avatar
Posts: 1,503 | Thanked: 2,688 times | Joined on Oct 2010 @ Denmark
#60
Originally Posted by Estel View Post
you can always de-solder it and solder back again, just for the hell'lotta'fun of doing it

/Estel
yes but it would not show the scrape off then...
 
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